Day Eight

The Lord of Hell was on vacation, his face covered in order to ignore the reverie during the Hungry Ghost Festival. His absence left the gates of the Netherworld open allowing ghosts trapped in the spiritual realm to roam free, catch a show, visit relatives still breathing. While August wasn’t just for the living, it was still hot as hell.

We were two hours south in the city of Malacca. Settled in the 15th century on the narrowest point on the straits, Malacca was started by a sultan fleeing from Sumatra. According to legend, the sultan took shelter under a tree to watch a mouse deer defend itself against a pack of dogs. It managed to push one into the river while the others fled. The scene inspired the Sultan to found the town and he named the future city after the tree he was resting beneath, the Malacca.

The Portuguese colonized the city in the 16th century. Jesuit missionary Francis Xavier lived in Malacca during this time. The Dutch arrived and conquered in the 17th century and held power until it was ceded to the British in 1824. The area was ruled by this foreign power for more than 120 years until Malaysian independence.

The city retains the look of a place that has exchanged numerous cultural hands. The narrow streets, still lined with cobblestone, are barely wide enough for the cars that zoom by. The buildings in the historic centre are only a few stories and are stuck in the past: curio-stores are filled with knick-knacks from every era, tiny eateries serving a wide range of foods. Boats float down the canals as tourists crane their necks to observe the passing buildings.

There’s a reason Malacca is on the World Heritage List. We hiked the hill up from Fort A Formosa – one of the oldest European architectural remains in Asia – to St. Paul’s Church where Xavier was briefly interred before being buried in Goa, India. The British turned the church into a fort. Giant burial markers centuries old leaned against the wall commemorating the ones who were fortunate enough to afford a tombstone. We ventured down the other side of the hill and explored Christ Church, built by the Dutch in 1753, and the numerous souvenir kiosks. Dozens of rickshaw drivers parked along the square, each bicycle-power contraption adorned with colorful flowers and flashy kaleidoscopes.

After lunch we walked around the Chinese district. The main draw was Jonker Street where we glanced at the various antique shops and made our way to the Cheng Hoon Teng Temple. Built in 1645, the Taoist temple is the oldest place of worship still in function in Malaysia.

It was here we learned about the Hungry Ghost Festival. Celebrated on the fifteenth day in the seventh month of the Chinese calendar, it is considered the time when the Lord of Hell takes a holiday leaving the gates open for ghosts to enter our world in order to receive food and drinks. This version of ancestor worship includes the burning of incense and the burning of joss paper in the form of material goods. Elaborate meals are thrown together and Chinese operas, dramas and burlesque shows are performed for the living and dead. A few empty seats closest to the food and in the front rows are left open for the deceased. The festivities this year are August 24.

Once the photos were snapped, trinkets purchased and the endurance to the heat spent, we boarded the bus and headed back to KL to celebrate our final night in Malaysia. Our closing dinner was held at a Chinese restaurant in the Central Market where we shared libations and stories and delicious food. Awards we dolled out and we wrapped up our time together in Southeast Asia.

Day Seven

The days were winding down. Friday marked our final day for events. Our first stop was to Sekolah Menengah Sains Alam Shah, an all-male secondary boarding school that focuses on math and science. Founded in 2003, it is only one of six all-male schools in Malaysia. The discussion started with a well-edited video emphasizing the numerous academic accomplishments and social successes the 600 students have achieved. The school has sent delegations all over the country as well as sending a select few ambassadors internationally. The video listed the countries students have visited: Japan, Thailand, Australia, Cambodia, Singapore, Indonesia and England.

The principal stressed the goal of this school: to produce quality human capital. In order to generate the future leaders of tomorrow, the school concentrates on a defined curriculum taught by competent teachers. The Ministry of Education sets the curriculum and watches student progress closely. Professional development is also an important aspect to providing the best education possible. In order to hone their skills and improve in areas if needed, teachers are sent on benchmarking trips in order to better understand the National Education Philosophy.

Students must complete an entrance exam to attend SMSAS. They live on campus and travel home only once a month. Administrators and teachers also live on-site. The principal talked about the importance parental involvement in student achievement and told us the PTA played an important group in the school.

One student explained his experience at SMSAS to us as “the place where I was forged.” He credited his growth self-confidence to the school due to the competitive environment and the shared experience and believed that he was going to leave with “real-world experience.”

After a quick lunch by the Petronas Towers, which from 1998 to 2004 were the tallest building in the world, we headed over to the International School of Kuala Lumpur. Catering to the children of diplomats, embassy officials, business people and ex-patriots, the primary/secondary school has more than 1600 students from 60 different nationalities, including Malay. The school was founded 45 years ago. The teaching staff is made up of people from the United States, Australia, England and New Zealand. Of the more than 80 teachers, 27 are new hirers this year. We were told the school closely follows the U.S. curriculum and the environment is highly competitive. The school is looking to expand to 2000 students, but has to build a new campus in order to accommodate the growth.

Parents are closely involvement in decision-making and ISKL does work with the Malaysian Ministry of Education, however, the school operates independently. Roughly 80 percent of operational costs come from tuition and fees. The ISKL primarily focuses on developing the skills and attitudes to become successful global citizens through rigorous course work, community service and trips to experience a variety of cultures. After graduating, students head to universities all over the world, though most will attend schools in the United States.

After our discussion, we were led on a tour of the campus. The school day was about to wrap up and students were restless, their eyes drifting towards the clock. Everyone wore uniforms: blue collared shirts with dark pants or shorts. We sneaked into an economics class to observe students in a classroom setting. A group of junior high students were attending a multi-media assembly in the auditorium. It seemed the teachers and students had a relaxed report with each other. The entire school seemed to have a calmed atmosphere. The bell rang, ending the day, and students poured into the hallways to head to extracurricular activities or home. Some lingered in the lunchroom to decompress while others sprinted towards the exits.

Day Six

Ramadan is the ninth month on the Islamic calendar. For 30 days, Muslims fast, refraining from eating, drinking and sexual activity from dawn until sundown. Ramadan began on August 11, the day we arrived in KL, a predominately Muslim city. Malay restaurants were closed for the day and hectic as the sun dipped below the horizon when Muslims broke the fast. We ate a lot of Indian and Chinese food.

Our first full day in KL was split into three episodes and we hit the ground running. Each installment was jam-packed with information and amusement.

University of Malaya

Established in 1962, three years after Malaysia gained independence, the university is the oldest in the country. It is ranked first among schools in the region and has educated many of the current leaders throughout the country. The administrators, faculty and students who welcomed us were enthusiastic to have us as guests.

The event began off with a video produced by the Ministry of Education highlighting the accomplishments of the University of Malaya. Dean Dr. Saedah Siraj said the university was in the process of restructuring the curriculum. The ministry wanted to grow the number of graduate students while decreasing the amount of undergraduates. They hoped to have a one-to-one ratio by 2012.

The group split and students met with by Dr. Abdul Rahman and Dr. Suffean Hussein for presentations. Rahman spoke about how Malaysia played its role in the global community through policies to educate the entire population, with special attention paid to remote areas, by setting up boarding schools and teaching English at an early age. There are hurdles. They include: closing the education gap between urban and rural; upgrading the national school system; and focusing more emphasis on access, equality and quality. “No child should be deprived of education,” Rahman said.


Rahman turned the floor over to Hussein who spoke about diversity in Malaysian higher education. The student population is predominately comprised of Malays, Chinese, Indonesian, Middle Eastern and North African. As for actual schools: there are more than 600 private colleges scattered around Malaysia, Hussein said, and 20 public universities. This expansion of higher educational institutions, along with the number of students attending, Hussein referred to as “Mass-ification.”

On a side note, both speakers told us they earned their doctorates from Pac-10 schools: Hussein from the University of Oregon and Rahman proudly declaring he was a fellow Trojan.


We returned in the afternoon to meet with a dozen graduate students to discuss the merits of teaching and the future of education in Malaysia. The event was less formal as everyone talked face-to-face for more intimate dialogues. Conversations rotated around English as a second language, math and science classes and teaching in KL. Some talked about how teachers were trying to bring more freedom to the classroom, much like the U.S. system. Others saw teachers as being tied down by the curriculum. However, the consensus was things were slowly beginning to change.

Sek Keb. Convent Bukit Nanas

Once again we were spoiled with the red-carpet treatment. The school pulled out all the stops. The girls greeted us at the entrance in full costume – traditional dresses – and shook our hands as we stepped through the gate. Principal Vimala welcomed us and shared some of the history as we toured the grounds. Three nuns started the school at the end of the 19th century to provide education for girls in the city. As both a primary and secondary school, there are more than 500 students enrolled in classes.

We were led into the White Hall – the main auditorium – that was open-air. The award-winning choir performed for us. Then the Action Songs Team took the stage and impressed us with their synchronized dance moves and dazzling outfits. After the student presentations, Vimala shared with us the school’s achievement, including representing both KL and Malaysia in a variety national and international competitions.

Day Five

Goodbye Hanoi, it’s been nice to meet you, but we’re sorry to say we have other obligations to attend to and have to leave before the end of the party…

The days ticked by quickly. We arrived then we packed up and left. It was hard to believe that a day switched into five. It felt instantaneous. However, we didn’t leave without a final excursion. We had one more university tour to absorb before a plane whisked us away to Kuala Lumpur.

We wrapped up our time in the Vietnamese capital at Hanoi Pedagogical University 2. A large delegation of students and faculty greeted and ushered us to the conference room. Dr. Dinh Van Dzung, Deputy Manager of the Department of Training welcomed us to campus.

We were treated to a PowerPoint presentation detailing the role HPU2 was playing in educating Vietnam. The government, along with the teachers and students in the room, believed in having an education populace. To achieve this goal, HPU2 created an in-service training program to deliver on-site learning opportunities that reached everyone in society, especially those living in rural areas. Currently, HPU2 graduates are working in more than 20 Vietnamese provinces.

After quick lunch at a hotel on the banks of a picturesque lake where we mingled with students and faculty, we headed off to the airport to depart for Malaysia. Our flight was delayed. During that time, I asked a few of the APRISE students to reflect on their time in Hanoi.

Overall, the students all wanted to have more time in Vietnam. Terri Sterr believe they only scratched the surface and wanted to explore more in depth the K-12 system. Job Springer thought that he was only beginning to understand the Vietnamese school structure. Bria Morgan was amazed with the experience and was contemplating returning to Vietnam to teach for a few months. Anil Muhammed saw that there were numerous opportunities for students pursuing an education and there was a strong desire to learn English and become a teacher. “The economic opportunities complimented the educational opportunities,” Anil said.

Skip forward a few hours and we landed in Kuala Lumpur. The day had long worn down and night had set in by the time we arrived at our hotel. Exhaustion didn’t prevent us from catching a glimpse of what we were going to be immersed in for the coming days.


Kuala Lumpur, known as KL to all the locals, is a thriving mega-city. As a former British colony, it still retains its European essence. Think Singapore. Think Hong Kong. Think Shanghai. It’s an urban sprawl with skyscrapers jutting up into the air that dwarf the millions of people milling about on the ground. Hordes of cars and buses cram into every space on the road vying for that spot that will get them another three feet closer to their destination.

Languages flux every three feet as you pass by people from all walks of life. Malaysia is a predominately Muslim country but representatives of every race, creed and culture co-habituate in a secular society. Women in full-length burqas wait for the crosswalk light to change next to teenagers in designer clothes next to women in head scars next to men in suits jabbing away on cell phones. The light changes and everyone moves along.

Day Four

The bus rolled along an uneven two-lane road. Motorbikes weaved around us. Vehicles traveling in either direction frequently drove into opposing traffic. Horns screamed out. Trucks rumbled by faster than they should. The bus kept pace. We were on a road trip, leaving Hanoi behind, heading north to a city two hours away. A dreamlike amount of green expanded around us as we passed endless rice paddies. Farmers, hunched over in their reed hats, tended to their crops. Cows munch away on the shoulder, oblivious to the chaos mere inches away from them. Rice paddies became towns that became jungle that became rice paddies. Repeat.

The villages were on the verge of modernization but were held back the anchor of their bucolic nature. They were seemingly stuck in a time-warp. If it weren’t for the few ornate government buildings, occasional new villas and brand new motorbikes we could have been transported back to a bygone era. The farther we got from Hanoi, the more animals materialized (AUTHOR’S NOTE: I only bring this up because I have barely seen any animals in Hanoi: a few dogs, one cat and birds in cages. The lack of stray dogs, the wayward cat or flock of birds is…unsettling); dogs lounged in driveways; cats rested on ledges; chickens pecked at the gravel; cows continued to munch and wander. The bubble of Hanoi wore away and we got a sense of what the rest of Vietnam was like.



We were on route to Thai Nguyen to visit a university that caters to many of the ethnic minorities in Vietnam. There are 54 ethnic minorities in the country. Many of them live in the northern parts of the country.

We pulled to a stop outside the Cultural Museum of Ethnic Groups in Thai Nguyen. The museum had an exhibition devoted to each group. We were directed through each display to get a sense of traditional dress, area of habitation and lifestyle. “I’m curious what these people are like now,” Malinalli Cooke said, as she studied the displays. It was a good question: many of the displays presented the groups in archaic situations, nothing about their modern situation.

The plan shifted slightly as we were supposed to visit a tea plantation, but instead we just rolled up to a family farm and explored the tiny tea plot. Our guide, Tuan, commented that it was a more self-sufficient method to make money to plant tea. We then visited a tea factory where the tealeaves are prepared for distribution. We sampled a few glasses of the local brew. The tea had a smoky aroma and the burnt odor transferred to the taste. Tuan said the leaves were dried through the process of running them over a hot barrel by hand. It gave the drink the smoky flavor.

The afternoon was devoted to visiting with professors and students at the Thai Nguyen University of Education. There isn’t really much to write about this. We arrived. They spoke to us. We split into two groups. The APRISE students met with three students who didn’t open up until the professors were asked elsewhere. We learned what it was like for ethnic minorities seeking higher education – they felt equal, never put down and allowed to flourish with the same opportunities. We left only slightly satisfied, with questions still rattling around in our heads.

Day Three

Today consisted of three separate events in order to provide us with a well-rounded idea of the Vietnamese education system.

Ministry of Education and Training

Our first destination was a formal affair – it was the governing body in charge of the national education system. Vice Minister Bui Van Ga welcomed us but his stay was brief, as he had to run off to another engagement. His replacement, Director General Tran Ba Viet Dzung, came and told us about the goals of the Ministry. As director of the International Cooperation Department, Dzung spoke about the collaborations with various countries around the world in helping set up numerous programs to help bring education throughout Vietnam.

When the meeting opened to questions, we leapt at the chance to understand the complexities of the ministry’s master plan. Dr. Tatiana Melguizo asked whether or not Vietnamese universities were autonomous. Dzung said that the ministry was in the process of decentralizing higher education in order to give universities more freedoms; however, there was a lot of ground to cover before universities could act independently. Bernadette Tyrell asked if the ministry was acting with any sense of urgency to bring education to all of Vietnam. Dzung said the ministry’s goal was to have every Vietnamese student speaking English by 2015. He also mentioned the Ministry’s aim to reach into rural areas, identify leaders in education in order to provide short training programs to poorer communities.

Hanoi National University of Education

Our next stop allowed us delve deeper into Vietnamese higher education. We spoke with Nguyen Viet Thinh, president of the university, and Dinh Quang Thu, director of the Center for International Education and Training. A PowerPoint presentation taught us about the numerous programs the university has in operation to help educate people throughout the country along with opening up international opportunities for both faculty and students through joint research, training programs, language and cultural exchanges and exchange visits. Quang said the university was in the process of reshaping pedagogy and the curriculum to better serve an emerging student population in a growing global market.

Caugiay Upper Secondary School

This was the true highlight of the day. Students and faculty were enthusiastic to have us as their guests. We were given the red carpet treatment. Students greeted us decked out in traditional Vietnamese attire and led us to a tiny meeting room where we were treated to three musical presentations. The acts showcased the talents of a number of students: a duo performed covers of Linkin Park songs; another student delighted the crowd with a rendition of the Michael Jackson hit ‘Billie Jean’ along with spectacular choreography; and a group of young women performed a traditional Vietnamese dance dressed up in dazzling turquoise outfits while waving pink fans. Everyone in attendance, students and faculty alike, including us, got into the presentations with cheers.

With more than 1200 students, the school caters to teenagers between 16-18. Many of the students expressed the desire to explore world beyond the Vietnam border. A handful of students about to graduate said they planned to attend university, hopefully overseas. They were all excited to test their nearly perfect English on us; it was a testament to what the Ministry of Education and Training aspired to achieve.

We were then split up into tiny groups and ushered into different classrooms so we could witness firsthand the learning process in action. While we tried to go unnoticed, students giggled and couldn’t help but glance around at the strangers among them. It was a welcomed disruption to the school day. Job Springer stood up and commended the class on their achievements and how proud he was to observe them. Clarice Tuasivi and Bernadette Tyrell led their class in a school cheer that required everyone to stand up and participate. The entire classroom buzzed as students repeated the chant and waved their arms in unison. Michelle McGuire, Bria Morgan, Yma Dandridge and Bernadette were roped into a game that required them to imitate the moves of a student who volunteer to try to trick up the visitors. The APRISE students managed to keep up with the moves; however, each slight misstep caused the entire class to erupt in laughter.

The boom of a drum in the courtyard alerted us a break between classes. Everyone spilled into the hallway and conversations broke out about living in the United States, what university life was like and how we were enjoying Hanoi. Any shyness dissolved and more students approached us to fervently pick our brains about anything, everything. Another boom of the drum forced conversations to begrudgingly wrap up; but we felt, as we all departed, we left a lasting impression on these students and better insight to education in Vietnam.

Day Two

Ho Chi Minh was dead. The combination of chemicals and lighting gave the impression Uncle Ho decided to take an afternoon nap. The former president of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam was on display in an ornate glass casket, his head nestled peacefully in a pillow, his hands resting comfortably on his lap. Someone just needed to shake him awake. You almost expected him to roll over and wave. This was perhaps the best way to familiarize with Hanoi.

Sunday marked the official kick off of the 2010 APRISE Vietnam and Malaysia Study Tour. Everyone arrived, settled and mostly acclimated to the time zone. None of us were really free of the effects of transcontinental travel. Our day was planned with various stops at important cultural landmarks, the first being the mausoleum of Ho Chi Minh.

Like previous Communist leaders – Lenin, Stalin, Mao – Ho Chin Minh’s body was embalmed after his death and turned into an attraction.

Led by our guide, Tuan, we lined up outside a security checkpoint. We weren’t allowed to carry cameras, cell phones or backpacks. Once through the metal detector, our things thoroughly inspected, we were directed to the main line into the mausoleum. Hundreds of people already gathered for the chance to see the interred body. No one spoke. Guards in full military regalia supervised us as we slowly marched towards the entrance. The line snaked around the viewing room where the body was laid to rest. The Soviet sickle and hammer along with the Vietnamese star adorned the wall behind the transparent casket. Ho Chi Minh was illuminated in an ethereal light, his skin otherworldly white. A strange unease lingered in the room under the watchful gaze of the guards. We nervously observed the body and allowed the line to push us towards the exit. There was no time to reflect on what we saw until we were outside again.

Our next stop was the Presidential Palace Area where Uncle Ho once lived and oversaw the country. The grounds were lush with green and French colonial architecture. The buildings were preserved much like the deceased president. The rooms were left in the same conditions they were almost 50 years ago. The atmosphere was more relaxed as families snapped photos and gazed into the tiny pond to search for fish. The main attraction was the House on Stilts that the former president built to signify the link between North and South Vietnam.

We hopped back on the bus and rumbled towards the Temple of Literature where scholars have been educated for the past millennium. Dr. Huu Ngoc, a former soldier in the People’s Army of Vietnam, historian and writer, spoke to us about the country’s thousand-year history, which Ngoc split into different eras based on who the Vietnamese were interacting with: Chinese, French, United States, just to name a few. He also shared with us his books about American culture and Vietnamese folklore. He had many insights into the wars with the French and the United States, human rights, Vietnam’s role in the global marketplace and the future for the country.

Our excursion wrapped up at Hoan Kiem Lake in the French Quarter where we all climbed into cyclos, or bicycle rickshaws, for a leisurely tour through the tiny streets of Hanoi. The area is known for its 36 streets and 36 wares – each street is devoted to a different product. Back alley shops and tiny road-side noodle cafes slowly passed as we made our way around the old quarter. Buses and motorbikes brushed dangerously close to our human-powered vehicles, but we all returned to the hotel unscathed.

We topped the day off with a dinner at the Ly Club where we celebrated the conclusion of our kick off extravaganza with the fusion of traditional Vietnamese delicacies and French cooking. The five-course meal left us with satisfied appetites and droopy eyes. We departed the restaurant to head back to the hotel to sleep.

Hanoi A-Go-Go

After 20 hours, three meals, a handful of bad movies, a few drinks, little to no sleep and a short break in Bangkok, we landed in Hanoi. Noi Boi International Airport is nothing more than a runway and tiny terminal on the outskirts of the city. Russian-made fighter jets rest unused in hangers by the tarmac. It took 40 minutes to actually make it into the city. A chorus of horns accompanied our arrival.

We tumbled from Thursday to Saturday due to the meddling of the international dateline. Friday’s overrated anyway. Jetlag squishes your brain into mush and warps your senses. Your mind tries to compensate but overdoes the process and sends you into a super-charged hyper-realism. Hanoi is the perfect jam-packed metropolis to experience this distorted perception.

The Vietnamese capital is comprised of buildings jutting out from the ground like blocks stacked high by someone in a hurry. The scraggily compact domiciles are crammed tight as they clamor for space with their surrounding neighbors, each one seemingly falling over the other. New buildings comply with the Communist ideal of simplicity. Remnants of the old French Colonial architecture stand out and give the area flair. Nothing is empty. Storefronts are packed with merchandise. People constantly spill out from doorways and poorly lit alleys. Nothing is quiet; everything is humming…

…mostly from the relentless noise created by the swarms of motorbikes and vans that fight for dominance on the roads that twist through Hanoi. The motorized bicycles are the clear victors in this battle just by sheer numbers. Millions of them buzz around the streets and sidewalks. Traffic signals and rules of the road are more of suggestions rather than requirements. The simple act of crossing the street is a harrowing experience as pedestrians are obstacles to maneuver around instead of heeding on the side of caution towards. The screeches of horns justify the lack of brake use. The continuous honking is seizure inducing. There is no escape as families pile themselves onto one mechanical cycle to go from here to there, the parents taking the proper precautions by wearing helmets while children are wedged between adults for safety. The entire population heads somewhere to somewhere else throughout the day.

The heat is probably the reason for the unending movement. It acts as an escape from the sweltering temperature. Your innards melt and seep from every pore. The humidity is suffocating, surrounding you like an angry mob. The only escape is to drift into one of the thousands of restaurants and cafes whose hypnotic aromas tumble out and lure you in for a beer, some noodles, something edible and refreshing. The day slowly ticks by and the day trickles into afternoon that bleeds into night and while your mental capacity starts to dwindle from traveling, Hanoi continues to chug on without noticing your absence.

Day One

Welcome to the inaugural posting for the 2010 APRISE Study Tour to Vietnam and Malaysia. For the next 10 days, 14 EDD/MAT students, four USC faculty members and one principal from a partner school will explore Hanoi and Kuala Lumpur in order to better understand the education practices of foreign countries and expand their knowledge of teaching. This blog will provide daily updates for everyone curious about the experience.


There is more to report; however, jetlag has sapped away the ability to form cohesive thoughts and mental capacity is diminishing. So until next time…